At first blush, this St. Paul landmark (est. 1956)looks a little worse for wear. But where else are you going to get a pile of hand-cut fries and on old-fashioned malt served with the can for the kiddies, a glorious egg salad sandwich as light and fluffy as a dream for mom, a pile of barbequed ribs for dad and a bottle drinkable Estancia, all served up under one unpretentious roof?